WINES i LOVE TODAY: A NIGHT WITH DAVID LAWSON OF CHEZ VIN - Matthew Swallow, Sheffield Section Chair
There’s something quietly brilliant about a Chez Vin tasting. On paper, it’s a list of wines, a room, a few glasses. In reality, it’s David Lawson doing what he does best: sharing what excites him right now. And as he reminded us more than once, “today” is the important word. These are not the wines he loved last month, nor the ones he’ll be championing next time. They’re simply the bottles that are giving him joy in this moment.
That sense of immediacy sets the tone from the outset. David’s traditional flair is all there – relaxed, knowledgeable, gently opinionated without ever being prescriptive – guided by a delicate palate and a famously sensitive nose that seems to catch things most of us miss entirely. He doesn’t just tell you what’s in the glass; he explains why it’s there, how he found it, and what made him fall for it.
With over 20 people in attendance, the room had a lovely hum about it. Glasses clinked, tasting sheets filled up, conversations flowed. It felt communal rather than formal – people comparing notes, disagreeing agreeably, going back for another sip “just to check”.
What really made the evening special wasn’t just the wines, but the way they were shared. David has an enviable ability to make everyone feel welcome, whether you’re confident with tasting notes or still working out what you actually like. There’s no pressure to “get it right” – just encouragement to trust your own senses.
At £20, the evening felt like an absolute bargain, especially with the generous pours and the thoughtfully curated lineup. Add in the 10% discount on mixed cases ordered on the night, and it’s easy to see why several people left with order forms completed.
This was one of those tastings where you come away not just having enjoyed good wine, but feeling slightly more curious, slightly more confident, and already looking forward to the next one – knowing full well that it will be completely different again. And that, really, is the joy of Chez Vin.
The tasting sheet itself was a journey, starting clean and fresh before gently building in texture and depth.
We opened with Cantina Lavis Nosiola 2023 from the Dolomites – a wine that immediately woke up the room. Crisp, alpine-fresh and quietly distinctive, it set a thoughtful tone rather than shouting for attention.
The Portuguese Vinha Maria Reserva Branco 2023 (Dão DOC) followed, showing a little more weight and seriousness without losing its balance. This was one of those wines that made people pause mid-conversation, glance back at the glass, and nod.
One of the talking points of the night was the Rioja Vega Colección Tempranillo Blanco 2024. Bright, confident and full of personality, it surprised a few Rioja traditionalists in the room and won them over all the same.
David then took us somewhere less expected with Dugladze Magical Tbilisi Kakhuri 2024 from Georgia. This was where his storytelling really shone – history, place and technique all wrapped up in a glass that felt both ancient and refreshingly new.
The reds brought warmth and depth. Vinha Maria Reserva Tinto 2022 showed the quiet class of Dão reds, followed by a beautifully poised Domaine Machard de Gramont Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2023, fragrant and elegant without trying too hard.
We finished with Pierre Cros Les Rocs 2023, a Vin de France with plenty of character and just a hint of wildness – a perfect closing note and a reminder that rules are often overrated.
